So where did we eat last night? We drove cautiously down the six foot wide road to the bottom of the hill without meeting anything coming up the other way (relief all round!) and drove to a restaurant in St Georges de Montclard. Studied the menu, looked at the empty tables and decided it wasn't open until 7pm or later.

Drove on in a big circle and passed the house we almost bought three or four years ago, noted that the owners had added a pool since last year, and that another old house was in the process of being renovated. Looked at each other, and shook our heads. Not even if we win the lottery? No, said dh. We'll stay in hotels for a month at a time if we win £162 million on the European lottery as some lucky people did this week. Three or four skiing holidays a year? Right! Pay for the kids to come over from Oz and join us, too!

We went into the restaurant run by the commune, and it too was empty but for a couple of locals at the bar. But they were happy to serve a meal, and I ate salade de chevre chaud for starters, which was very tasty, and papillote de poisson en parchment au Provencal as my main course. It wasn't very good. I expected the parchment to be that very thin crinkly pastry whose name I cannot remember, and it wasn't. More like brown paper, which went soggy as the tomatoes covering the white fish inside drained into it.

Now I like both white fish and tomatoes, but together they do not go. I was disappointed. I had a glass of red wine, and dh had two beers with his starter and canard du maison, which he enjoyed, and it cost us 44 euros. Since the euro=94pence right now, it wasn't a cheap meal. Perhaps next Saturday we'll go to Lou Peyrol, which we know has a brilliant chef. We'll pay a little more, but it will be worth it.

I've remembered the name of the pastry - filo!