Ardvreck

Working hard on Matho's story now. It's been put aside for the right amount of time, and I can see why the three agents I submitted to said they liked the story, the premise, the setting but were not sure they liked the writing - though they thought that was confidant and well done. The comment certainly me puzzled and I decided to withhold sending it out any more until I'd gone through it again.  Reading historical stuff on the market today, and then reading my ms, I see that I have been influenced by US writing standards - short, clear sentences, short paragraphs and little description. Seems that is not what UK agents are accepting, but at least I know what to do now.



Ardvreck Castle

Back in the north west of Scotland, we tootled up and down the front street of Lochinver, and stared out at a grey horizon were sea and sky simply merged into one another. Clouds sat on the mountains, and everything looked grey. Few shops, mostly closed because now it's out of season and few people about. Not an entrancing prospect. We've visited the Highland Stoneware Pottery many times, and didn't want to do it again as it just makes us want to spend more hard-earned cash. Getting out and walking some of the very pretty walks we've done before - one to Achmelvich, another to the Kirkaig waterfall, would be an invitation to another drenching.

So we set off east out of Lochinver on the A837 alongside Loch Assynt and Ardvreck Castle on the way back to Ullapool. I photographed the notice board, which hopefully will show up more clearly if you click to enlarge the pic, because there is little left of the castle. It stands on the island side of a neck of land jutting out into the loch, and a cetain times of the year when the burns are in spate and feeding the loch, it's possible they'd be splodging to get across.
Ardvreck

It's a pity it's so much an unstable ruin, because it was built around 1490 and in use in the sixteenth century, which is the era that really interests me. I came away with an impression of huge grey stones and wobbly bits of wall, small rooms and a wet and windy place to live - even today.

Heading west



The B869

Well, our first real walk ending in getting soaked, and the next morning the weather didn’t look any more promising. Odd, really. I’ve had several holidays in this part of the world at this time of the year and there’s always been a week of sunshine and blue skies. Frost at night, perhaps, but who cares if the day is fine? This year is obviously not going the same way. So we decided to move on and headed off towards Lochinver. Back down the A894 a little way and then off west on the narrow, twisty B869.



Looking north

Wonderful views in spite of the dour weather. And because of the rain (it kept it up all night) the waterfalls were in full spate. Once we got to the top of the hill, so to speak, we could look out across the north of Scotland, and as always, it looked sunny everywhere but where we were. One of the unwritten rules of Scotland is that if the weather is bad, then move on; it will very likely be sunny in the next valley.

We proceeded cautiously. There’s little else you can do when the road is only wide enough for one car, and if you meet something coming in the opposite direction, there’s a scramble to find a place wide enough for both to pass safely.  We found a village at Nedd, quite a sizable community for the remoteness of the spot. I found myself wondering if Tesco delivered from Ullapool, or if the inhabitants drive the fifteen miles to Lochinver every week for groceries.  I suppose I drive ten miles to my favourite supermarket once a week, but that’s on easy dual carriageways, not up and down hillsides on single track roads. Where does everyone work? Perhaps they all work at home via the internet super highway. It’s possible. The outer edges of Scotland were into the electronic age long before everyone else, though it must have been frustrating wback int he days when using the internet tied up your phone line. 

Ullapool 3

The weather wasn't as good on Thursday but we set out anyway heading for the Bone Caves just short of Inchnadamph. (The view to the left is of Ullapool from the rise towards Ardmair.) We passed the turnoff for Loch Lugainn and kept on north. It rained steadily most of the way and water poured off the hillsides as in the example here:

We found the turn off for the caves and sat and stared at the noticeboard through torrential rain. We waited and finally decided we could wait all day and it would never stop, so we took photos of the information board and pressed on to Lochinver.


They say there are bones of ancient animals in the caves. Skulls of polar bear and wolf, creatures that have not lived in the UK for thousands of years. At least I know where to find them next time I'm in the north west - when it is not raining.



At Lochinver we visited Highland Stoneware and watched potters and artists at work. We love their designs, and bought a coffee mug each. Check out the website at http://www.highlandstoneware.com/

We moved on south down the mad little road of Sutherland towards Inverkirkaig and a most unexpected bookshop called Achins, and their website is here . Should you ever wish to find a minority text pertaining to anything Scotland you should be able to find it among the sweaters and maps. Failing that, there's always the Ceilidh Place Bookshop in Ullapool.


Since we had blue sky again we set off to walk along the Kirkaig river to the falls, but you know all about that from my report on day one!

We had the road all to ourselves and didn't see much of wildlife until I stopped to take a pic of Canisp and Stac Pollaidh. A cute sheep obviously thought we were going to offer handouts, because he/she (who can tell?) trotted over to us, looking so very hopeful.

Ullapool

My dh never takes flattering pics of me! But I have to say this one makes me laugh. You must be wondering what I was doing... well, the last walk of our 3-day break in Ullapool was along the banks of the Kirkaig River not far from Lochinver. We set off in sunshine and got caught in a rain/sleet/wind storm. The path was wet when we walked up it, but when we came back we may as well have been walking in a stream, so wherever the water headed for the river, I helped it by channelling (with my stick) a deep groove to hasten the water on its way from the path to the river.
The delightful orange garment is my emergency poncho - purchased the day before for a mere £2. No, I am not peculiarly formed. The poncho covers head, body, arms and haversack as well.

We had a great time, and I'll reveal more photos over the next few days.

We stayed at the Caledonian on Quay Street. I booked an Easy-break online, and we got dinner, bed and breakfast for £41 per night, for three nights. That's not per person, as it usually is in the UK. An amazing price.
£20.50 each! The only thing we could complain about was that try as we might we niether of us could get hot water out of the shower. Since there was a full size bath, we had hot baths instead.

We had a great drive up with the roads all to ourselves. Left home at nine, arrived 4.30. We found the CAl-Mac ferry tied up at the landing as the wind was too high to allow it to sail to Stornoway.

Because the ferry didn't sail that day, or that night, Ullapool was crammed with juggernauts. All the big trucks that take groceries, furniture, you-name-it-they'll-take-it from the mainland to Lewis and Harris were chugging up the hill outside the hotel from 2am on, all expecting to get the 6am ferry. It didn't sail then, either. The hotel was full. People had to find a bed for the night, or sleep in their cars - not a pleasant prospect in February with the wind howling through the streets, the rain slanting down and the temperature about 4.5C.