Monday, 3 March 2008

Ullapool 3

The weather wasn't as good on Thursday but we set out anyway heading for the Bone Caves just short of Inchnadamph. (The view to the left is of Ullapool from the rise towards Ardmair.) We passed the turnoff for Loch Lugainn and kept on north. It rained steadily most of the way and water poured off the hillsides as in the example here:

We found the turn off for the caves and sat and stared at the noticeboard through torrential rain. We waited and finally decided we could wait all day and it would never stop, so we took photos of the information board and pressed on to Lochinver.

They say there are bones of ancient animals in the caves. Skulls of polar bear and wolf, creatures that have not lived in the UK for thousands of years. At least I know where to find them next time I'm in the north west - when it is not raining.

At Lochinver we visited Highland Stoneware and watched potters and artists at work. We love their designs, and bought a coffee mug each. Check out the website at

We moved on south down the mad little road of Sutherland towards Inverkirkaig and a most unexpected bookshop called Achins, and their website is here . Should you ever wish to find a minority text pertaining to anything Scotland you should be able to find it among the sweaters and maps. Failing that, there's always the Ceilidh Place Bookshop in Ullapool.

Since we had blue sky again we set off to walk along the Kirkaig river to the falls, but you know all about that from my report on day one!

We had the road all to ourselves and didn't see much of wildlife until I stopped to take a pic of Canisp and Stac Pollaidh. A cute sheep obviously thought we were going to offer handouts, because he/she (who can tell?) trotted over to us, looking so very hopeful.

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